Crossing the French-Spanish border at Hendaye-Irun takes, depending on the time, between five minutes and half an hour. That’s the time needed to change country, official language and, above all, culinary culture.
Hondarribia: the forgotten old town
Most visitors who cross the border head straight to San Sebastián. An understandable mistake — Donostia is one of Europe’s most seductive cities — but one that causes them to miss Hondarribia, just 20 kilometres from Irun.
Hondarribia is a city in two parts. Down below, the fishing port and the colourful mariners’ houses. Up above, within the walls, a fortified medieval town that has preserved its ramparts, cobbled streets and half-timbered houses in a way that neighbouring French towns haven’t always managed.
Pintxos at the marina
Hondarribia’s lower harbour is one of the most pleasant spots on the Spanish Basque coast for a late-afternoon drink. The bars overlooking the estuary serve excellent pintxos at prices well below Biarritz.
The ferry
A curiosity not to miss: the small boat connecting Hondarribia to Hendaye in a few minutes. The estuary crossing, with views of both towns, is one of the region’s most surprising micro-journeys.